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Phospholipids are essential components of the structure of all biological membranes. The amphiphilic nature of phospholipids allows them to act as co-emulsifiers both in O/W and W/O systems and gives them a high capacity to form liposomes ; they are also widely used as dispersing and wetting agents.
The ability of phospholipids to self-organize into bi-layers means that phospholipid-based emulsifiying systems can form lamellar structures under specific conditions. The superposition of these layers is biomimetic and very similar to the structure of the skin. Products formulated with phospholipids will thus have a high skin affinity, compatibility and tolerance.
Phospholipids give a characteristic touch to emulsions : soft and velvety, non greasy and cool. Their film forming property reduces the TEWL and increases the hydration of stratum corneum.
EMULSIFIERS
- → EMULMETIK™ Pure phospholipids
- → BIOPHILIC™ The phospholipid touch
- → AMISOL™ SOFT Polysensorial emulsifier
- → HELIOGEL™ The versatile gelling agent
- → AMISOL™ 4135 Make-up emulsifier
- → HELIOFEEL™ The polyvalent emulsifier
- → AMISOL™ DUO Natural pigment disperser
- → LECIGEL™ Phospholipidic gel-creams
- → ECOGEL™ The first natural gelling-emulsifying agent
EMULMETIK™ Pure phospholipids
PRESENTATION
EMULMETIK™ offer a large choice of phospholipids with various phosphatidylcholine (PC)contents. They can be used as co-emulsifiers and allow the formation of liposomes under specific conditions.
APPLICATION
All kinds of cosmetic products
ECOCERT STATUS
Ecocert version available upon request
BIOPHILIC™ The phospholipid touch
PRESENTATION
BIOPHILIC™ is a natural lamellar emulsifier made of phospholipids and vegetable lipids for the formulation of skin friendly O/W emulsions. Two references are available using hydrogenated(H) or unsaturated (S) lecithin. BIOPHILIC™ allows the formulation of different textures from fluid to cream with an innovative and unique touch.
INCI NAME (US)
BIOPHILIC™ H: Hydrogenated lecithin (and) C12-16 alcohols (and) Palmitic acid
BIOPHILIC™ S: Lecithin (and) C12-16 alcohols (and) Palmitic acid
EFFICACY TEST
In vitro test :High skin toleranceIn vivo test :Reduction in TEWL (-22%)
APPLICATION
Lotion to butter emulsions, sun care, make-up
ECOCERT STATUS
PCR negative quality registered
AMISOL™ SOFT Polysensorial emulsifier
PRESENTATION
AMISOL™ SOFT is an optimized combination of phospholipids, phytosterols and vegetable lipids for the formulation of O/W emulsions. This lamellar emulsifier mimics the lipid structure of the stratum corneum for a perfect biocompatibility. Very soft, it can be used for the most delicate applications. AMISOL™ SOFT brings a velvety and light feel to the skin.
INCI NAME (US)
Behenyl alcohol (and) Glyceryl stearate (and) Lecithin (and) Glycine soja (soybean) sterols
EFFICACY TEST
In vitro test :High skin toleranceIn vivo test :Reduction in TEWL
APPLICATION
Lotions to creams, sensitive skin and baby care products, sun care, make-up
ECOCERT STATUS
PCR negative quality registered
HELIOGEL™ The versatile gelling agent
PRESENTATION
HELIOGEL™ is a patented gelling ingredient with emulsifying properties confered by the presence of sunflower phospholipids. It thickens within a wide pH range, emulsifies all types of oil phases and has a good compatibility with most of the electrolytes. Gel-creams can be formulated with an innovative skin feel, non-tacky and non-greasy.
HELIOGEL™ is the solution to combine performance and skin sensation.
INCI NAME (US)
Sodium acrylates copolymer (and) Hydrogenated polyisobutene (and) Phospholipids (and) Polyglyceryl-10 stearate (and) Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil
EFFICACY TEST
Sensorial profile :Increase in freshness (+9%)Decrease in tacky after-feel (-17%)
APPLICATION
Gel-creams, serums, lotions, foundations, sun care
AMISOL™ 4135 Make-up emulsifier
PRESENTATION
Made from phospholipids and co-emulsifiers, AMISOL™ 4135 is very efficient at dispersing pigments, making it ideally suited to the formulation of color cosmetics.
It increases the stability of emulsions over a wide range of pH and protects them against changes of pH.
INCI NAME (US)
Lecithin (and) Propylene glycol stearate (and) Polysorbate 20 (and) Sorbitan laurate (and) Propylene glycol laurate
APPLICATION
Lipsticks, mascaras, foundations, creams, lotions
HELIOFEEL™ The polyvalent emulsifier
PRESENTATION
HELIOFEEL™ is a natural emulsifier for the formulation of O/W emulsions. Easy-to-use, it is compatible with a large variety of oils and forms particularly stable emulsions in the presence of electrolytes and other destabilizing agents. Polyvalent, it allows the formulation of a wide range of textures leaving a soft and velvety touch.
INCI NAME (US)
Glyceryl stearate citrate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 stearate (and) Hydrogenated lecithin
EFFICACY TEST
In vitro test :High skin toleranceIn vivo test :Reduction in TEWL (-9%)
APPLICATION
Sprayable to cream emulsions, sun care, make-up
ECOCERT STATUS
Registered
AMISOL™ DUO Natural pigment disperser
PRESENTATION
AMISOL DUO is a phospholipid-based dispersing agent of pigments with emulsifying properties. It is composed of a blend of soybean lecithin and low HLB natural emulsifier.It reduces pigment reaggregation, thus optimizing particularly the color rendering of make-up
INCI NAME (US)
Lecithin (and) Polyglyceryl-3 palmitate
EFFICACY TEST
Enhancement of the coloring power of lipsticks. Saturation(c*): +25% for a 10% dilution Improvement in shine and glide in lipsticks
APPLICATION
Make-up, sun care
ECOCERT STATUS
Registered
LECIGEL™ Phospholipidic gel-creams
PRESENTATION
LECIGEL™ is a gelling agent with emulsifying properties. It allows the increase in the viscosity and the stability of formulas. Suitable for both cold and hot processes, it also helps to adjust the viscosity at the end of the formulation process. Easy-to-use, it is compatible with most emulsifiers and is stable over a wide range of pH. Especially adapted for the formulation of gel-creams, it provides the typical “phospholipid touch” with a cool, soft and non-greasy skin feel.
INCI NAME (US)
Sodium acrylates copolymer (and) Lecithin
EFFICACY TEST
Sensorial profile :Slippery and cool touchVelvet and non-greasy skin feel
APPLICATION
Emulsifier for gel-creams (from 0.5%), stabilizer and viscosity adjuster for all kind of emulsions (from 0.2%)
ECOGEL™ The first natural gelling-emulsifying agent
PRESENTATION
ECOGEL™ is the first gelling-emulsifying agent certified by Ecocert. It allows the increase in the viscosity and the stability of formulae. Easy-to-use, ECOGEL™ is compatible with electrolytes and is stable over a wide range of pH. Especially designed for the formulation of gel-creams, it provides a silicone-like skin feel with a cool, soft and non-greasy sensation.
INCI NAME (US)
Lysolecithin (and) Sclerotium gum (and) Xanthan gum (and) Pullulan
EFFICACY TEST
Sensorial profile :Reduced picking and resilience compared to natural benchmarkSimilar profile to synthetic benchmarks
APPLICATION
Skin feel enhancer, stabilizer and viscosity adjuster for emulsions, main gelling and emulsifying agent for gel-creams
ECOCERT STATUS
Registered
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